Tuesday, February 19, 2013

More US made frame details...

I know disc brakes are all the rage.  I know disc brakes have certain advantages.  I know disc brakes are all some riders have experience with if their first bike was a mountain bike within the last 5-8 years.  I know that I may be losing potential buyers by not incorporating disc brakes on the US made frames.  However, I just can't get excited about disc brakes on my personal cross bike and the fact is these frames are extensions of what I like. 
I've been riding my cross bike for the past couple of years with budget Tektro CR-720 wide canti brakes with KoolStop Salmon pads.  There was never a time when I didn't have enough brake.  Recently, I installed some Paul Components canti brakes on a Rock Lobster - Neo Retro in front and Touring out back with KoolStop Thinline Salmon pads.  On the test ride, I was supremely impressed with the feel, modulation, and stopping power of these brakes. 

After a couple of years of wearing out brake pads on the Tektro brakes on my cross bike, I installed a set of the new Paul Mini-Moto brakes and they further made me less excited about disc brakes.  Love these brakes. 

So, the first detail of the US made cross frames is the brakes will be rim brakes.  There won't be a brazed on cable stop on the seat stay.  This gives a really clean look when riders use the mini-v brakes like the Paul Mini-Moto.  If a center-pull canti brake is the brake of choice, I'll have Paul Components' Funky Monkey available.  This, to me, has the ideal combination of clean looks and functionality.  

That's the brakes.  Tubing will be US made True Temper Versus with Paragon Machine Works dropouts and a lugged fork.  Working on final details of the fork.  Color:  in honor of their Bay Area heritage and the fact the frames will be made in San Francisco for a Marin County bike shop, I'm thinking the color should naturally be International Orange.  You know, the same color as that bridge that link Sand Francisco and Marin County.  If you want to get in on the first run of frames, now's your chance.  Pricing is still looking to be $1600 for frame and fork.

(What's playing:  Faultline Radio on KWMR)


Anonymous said...

I used to have a bike and ride a lot. Now, I have a lot of bikes and don't ride enough. I wish I could start over with a bike like this!

Lugged fork = cool


Anonymous said...

Power and modulation aside, the glaring issue I see with rim brakes now are when the rim seam passes the pads. Thunk, grab, thunk, grab... Can't say it ever bothered my back in the day, but I sure notice it now.

blackmountaincycles said...

The solution for the thunka-grab is a machined sidewall, or better a welded joint, machined sidewall. It's also pretty easy to smooth down the joint with some abrasive material between the brake pad and the rim.

Anonymous said...

Even when sanded, it seems (no pun intended) that there still remains a slight variation in rim width there which either grabs or lets the rim free for a split second. These are vintage rims I'm talking about, maybe the newer stuff is better.

blackmountaincycles said...

For sure the newer rims with machined sidewalls are much better. Even without machined sidewalls, newer rims are better. I'm on a non-machined Dyad on my cross bike and don't have the annoying grab/release.

Anonymous said...

Any thought to lowering the BB just a bit?
I'm not sure if the people who buy your frames race cx on them or use them for gravel road rigs. If the later, a lower BB would be nice.
Will the US made model have semi-horizontal drops similar to the Taiwanese frames? I really like the ability to switch to a fixed gear set up.

blackmountaincycles said...

The thought on the slightly lower bb is one I've tossed around. However, the dropouts will be vertical Paragon Machine Works Wright style.